La version française de cet article, par Christophe

Dear all,

Happy New Year 2025 from SY L’Envol and crew, greetings from the Pyrenees!

We are currently anchored in Hendaye, Basque Country (on the French side of the border), where the tranquil waters of Chingudi Bay have become our base for our first European winter. Busy travelling the world, neither of us had been back to see the family for over a decade, the last quarter of 2024 finally gave us a chance to catch up!

2024 was also the year of L’Envol’s third Atlantic crossing from the Caribbean via the Azores to Spain and then on to France. First time she had made the jump from Cape Verde to Brazil in 2014. Then, for the second passage out of South Africa in 2023, we had opted for the longer but easier route and sailed to Brazil with a stopover on St Helena Island. The alternative and the most direct way to Europe would have been to head north from St Helena beating into the brisk trades – not our cup of tea. Perhaps it is because of this conservative decision, that after nearly 60 000 nautical miles sailed, a fair part of these in the roaring forties, L’Envol still has her mast up. However, the price we paid for this and the unfortunate consequence was arriving too late to see Christophe’s mother, who passed away nine months earlier.

In hindsight

2024 started off with a four day passage out of French Guyana to the Caribbean and one intense week on the hard at the boat yard in Trinidad. No major repairs, just the antifouling routine, our fifth in 11 years. The hurricane free season had kicked in with sunshine and steady 10-15 knot easterly trades, « boring » and « too easy », we heard a couple of Caribbean regulars complain, but we did not mind at all. Easy sailing has not happened to us often enough and unlike those salts who had been doing seasonal sailing in the Antilles for years, we had just four months to enjoy the place.

After the dusty yard, we were keen to stretch our legs on the green mountain tops of the postcard-perfect arc of islands – a sacred destination for yachties crossing the Atlantic, its backdrop, a paradise, though not exactly lost. If only there had been less of us exploring the nooks and crannies of the archipelago, all seeking the promises of revelry in the same anchorages! If only some of the officials, lording over their tiny harbours, would act less like pirate kings, stalking the docks for late arrivals making sure they could charge their overtime fees, scheduling impossible departure times or making flippant declarations out of grudge. We finally managed to escape the crowds on the windward coast of Martinique and then again on the mountainous Basse Terre of Guadeloupe spending more time there than we had originally planned and loved it. Some of the highlights for us were meeting up with several sailing friends we had made in Brazil, breathtaking tropical jungle hikes, often crowned by a swim in a waterfall, hitchhiking fun with many wonderful encounters and staying overnight in a local home and a monastery when, on two occasions, after an exhausting day in the mountains, we reached the trail end after sunset.

In the beginning of May L’Envol left the Antilles in her wake to cross the Sargasso Sea which, how we soon found out battling our way through the yellow algae, deserves its name. We challenged ourselves to make the trip with no weather routing via satellite, following the pressure on the barometre, interpreting the known weather patterns for the area, the clouds and using the instinct to plot the course around the Bermuda-Azores High.

By day 20 we had another 2300 nautical miles under the belt when Christophe, together with the approaching gale, caught sight of the island of Flores in the Portuguese archipelago of the Azores. While tackling the light winds almost all the way, with just 4.86 knots average, made it one of our slowest ocean crossings, the last 24 hours became a race with the falling pressure, freshening winds and rising seas. The temperature dropped to 15 degrees, which, after spending years in the tropics, felt seriously cold.

We were in no hurry to get back to sea and stayed in the Azores for a total of two months, visiting six of the nine volcanic islands. A special surprise for us was meeting up with sailing buddies from 10 years ago on the island of Faial. There was some catching up to do!

There was very good hiking everywhere: terrains ranging from ancient cobble stone streets and rusty dirt roads to forest paths leading to waterfalls on Flores, walks on ashes of recently born peninsulas from a 1957 eruption on Faial, near to vertical stairs carved into green cliffs on Sao Jorge, scrambles up and down the lava fields frozen in time on Pico, peat bog landscapes hugging crater lakes on Terceira and goat trails daring us to escape the popular paths on Sao Miguel. By the time we left Azores we had walked no less than 300 kilometres in the archipelago.

Discussions of where to next ranged from Turkey to Ireland and why not Norway, with the final decision made when already five days out at sea – we were sailing to Spain! And so, at the end of July and another 1000 nautical miles later, we sighted the northwest tip of the Iberian Peninsula. Since the beginning of the year we had used just two litres of fuel (including for manoeuvring in the ports), and were feeling pretty confident that the jerrycan we had filled in Australia in 2022 would last us all the way to France.

On and on, we were heading for the finishline, supposedly a wonderful summer sail of 300 nautical miles day hopping along the Spanish coast, which all sounds great. Things did not work out exactly as planned! Our erratic 400 nautical mile track to France is a reminder of a grueling month long endeavour to try to hunt out the slightest breeze in the windless Bay of Biscay, almost all of it right on the nose! In the attempt we used up half our fuel, which is 10 litres, to reach a couple of anchorages when all hope had gone.

Meanwhile, Christophe’s father was following our progress on the map of the voyage every step of the way, and came to meet us when we arrived in Hendaye. Together with his partner Genevieve they had travelled 10 hours from the Alps to give us the first unforgettable embrace and welcome home. The magic of that ecstatic moment of return included going home to Christophe’s family, who greeted us like heroes, sharing travelogues and for ten days enjoying excellent French wine and cheese!

Soon it was time to think what next. We opted for staying the off-season on L’Envol and decide in the spring if we would like to continue our life afloat or turn the page, though whatever and wherever that might be, don’t ask, we still haven’t got a clue! We had felt so nostalgic for European winters when away, but living on the boat with no heating or having to keep anchor watches when riding on a storm every 10 days or so, is tough. However, when the sun is out the Pyrenees provide a stunning setting, the village of Hendaye is a lovely place and we are a stroll away from Spain. We have given a talk to an audience of 80 sailors at the Hendaye Yacht Club, and even made it into the local newspaper, the Sud-Ouest. We have nice anchorage neighbours and being close to family feels great.

And so we have reached the end of the project of sailing our 25 footer around the world. People often asked us how much cruising life cost us, to which we liked to say: less than we thought but all what we had. As to the numbers, then we lived on a shoestring and managed to get by with a monthly budget of roughly 500 euros, of which 30% was funded by 11 crowdfunding initiatives. Apart from that we worked for a total of one and a half years. Help was always there when we most needed – sailing we journeyed into the heart of nature but upon landfall, countless times, experienced the magic of human kindness through the hand of a stranger. We would like to take this opportunity to thank everyone who has supported this voyage. Thanks also to our blog readers and followers for your positive vibes. Stay in touch and check for the updates on the website www.intothewind.fr.

With wishes of health, joy and fair winds for 2025,

Christophe and Carina

More photos from 2024

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La trace GPS du bateau, nos traces GPS à terre (en trek, en stop…) et nos waypoints d’escales dans l’océan Atlantique sont visibles et téléchargeables gratuitement à partir de cette carte du voyage interactive. Sur un fond d’images satellites, vous pouvez zoomer, vous déplacer et cliquer sur les traces et les escales de L’Envol pour obtenir plus d’information.

Article publié le 24/01/2025 depuis L’Envol, baie de Chingoudy, Hendaye, France, GPS 43 22.13 N 1 46.46 W

Envie de nous donner un coup de main ? Visites la page de financement participatif de L’Envol : www.intothewind.fr/crowd-funding/

La version française de cet article, par Christophe

This data base of anchorage waypoints and navigation aids was created during the three years SY L’Envol sailed around Australia. Just like with the two previous projects of South Pacific Ocean crossing and sailing through Patagonia, a part of our preparation for the trip Down Under was to collect all information available and make a synthesis of it in our navigation software. Christophe would then double check the accuracy of each waypoint with high-resolution satellite imagery of SASPlanet – a software that allows not only downloading the satellite images but also plot the course between reefs and coral bommies, export (or import) .gpx files and, icing on the cake, would then show our yacht’s GPS position on the satellite map while underway without the need for mobile coverage.

Australian cruising grounds

With the quantity of miles to be sailed and places explored, this waypoint file was not a job finished in one go, but rather an ongoing eye-opening process which not only helped us complete our personal goal but showed how much more there is to Australian cruising grounds, and not just around the Great Barrier Reef, but in every corner of the country. We could probably circumnavigate Australia again without repeating any of the anchorages!

Cluster of anchorage waypoints showing all the possibilities. We only tried 230, a tiny part of these!

Unfortunately many international sailors, especially the French, choose to skip Australia and sail from New Caledonia directly to Torres Strait, probably fearing the language barrier and the officialdom. Others arrive in Brisbane or Bundaberg and then sail up the beaten track in the sheltered waters of the reef. Spending Christmas and New Years Eve in Sydney is another popular choice.

While local sailors can take a lifetime to enjoy their coastline, the foreign fleet have to worry about visas and cruising permits which luckily, though only for some nationalities, is not as complex and limiting as we had first thought. One year visas, we had applied for in advance, were easily granted and upon arrival we found out that our yacht could stay up to three years in the country.

So why not opt for the grand tour?

Australian coastline, of more than 10 000 nautical miles and stretching from latitude 44 in the south to the tropical latitude 10 at the top end of the country, has a lot to offer to cruisers, many of the places still little known to those who have sailed here from overseas. Two of our favourite discoveries have been the Kimberley Plateau – an area of magnificent red canyons with ancient rock art galleries remembering the days the Aboriginal communities inhabited the place, which lies in the northwest corner of the country, and Tasmania, which despite its chilling location in the roaring forties, has many sheltered waterways and harbours to explore, its each corner different and of stunning beauty. Both clockwise and anti-clockwise circum-navigations are practised, but watch those seasons – timing your passages along one or the other part of the coast is crucial for a safe voyage. To sail around Australia in one year is possible, but those who prefer slower pace, should consider taking two years.

«WPTS Australie.gpx» (1.36 MB), is a .gpx file composed of 2359 navigation aids and anchorage waypoints. The information to create these files has come from 17 different nautical guides, blogs and websites but also word of mouth of many Australian sailors who shared their experiences with us. All in all, this .gpx file makes a great planning tool for sailors coming to Australia whatever their project, or for local yachties intending to sail beyond their usual cruising grounds. The information in the waypoints is given in English.

Note: the Name of the waypoint will be shown on the screen. These are usually keywords and give a general overview of the available information. Many places, however, will have more information which can be accessed by opening the Properties window of the waypoint and reading the Description.

Above, description of the Crocodile Creek waypoint in the Kimberley.

Cloud of waypoints on your screen

In softwares of OpenCPN (navigation) and SASPlanet (satellite imagery).

How to install

This .gpx file could be used in any software which can import a .gpx file.
If using OpenCPN, simply save the .gpx file in its «Layers» folder:

C:\Documents and Settings\All Users\Application Data\opencpn\Layers
or
C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Application Data\opencpn\Layers

Price: €35 / AUD $55. To receive by e-mail this .gpx file of 2359 navigation aids and anchorage waypoints, click on the «Donate» button below and proceed to payment via Paypal.

Thank you for supporting SY L’Envol’s journey!

All contributions received through this page will be added to the running crowdfunding project and visible here:
www.intothewind.fr/crowdfunding/

Free: our ship’s track and 230 anchorages in Australia (but also elsewhere) are FREE to download (as .kml files) here:
www.intothewind.fr/map-of-the-voyage/

Blog articles about this part of the trip:
www.intothewind.fr/planete-kimberley/
www.intothewind.fr/category/tour-de-tasmanie/
www.intothewind.fr/tag/australie/

Christophe + Carina
SY L’Envol

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Other .gpx files:

In January 2020 our friends from SY Anna Caroline, sailors, journalists and bloggers Janneke and Wietze, contacted us and fourteen other sailing boats to complete their annual research project for Dutch magazine Zeilen. The article was to be called: « The perfect cruising boat » and discuss whether or not such a thing exists. Together with others were asked to make a short description of our boat to show her most important aspects, plusses and compromises as well as give a slogan and a photo. From these 15 participating boats, 8 fly Dutch flags, 1 South African, 1 Swedish, 1 Falklands, 2 French and 2 Belgian. The article was due to be published in May, but with the pandemic the topic was probably found inappropriate.

Thank you Janneke and Wietze for this work.

L’article en néerlandais / The article in Dutch (PDF) :

Ideale vertrekkersboot

Traduction en anglais / English translation (PDF) :

The perfect cruising boat

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The original letter to my brother, sent from Geraldton, Australia, on the 2nd of November 2019, did not include the timeline «A Blank on the Map» nor the wreck sites map «Ghosts of the Abrolhos». These parts were added later, when in 2023 L’Envol had stopped in Brazil for a 9-months breather and I had time to plunge into further research of the subject. Published from Charlotteville, Tobago, on the 25th of January 2024, under «wrong date» for the sake of the story.

Back to Carina’s letters

Sent from Monkey Mia, Australia, on the 25th of October 2019.

The theme for the title image comes from our short stop in the Osborne Islands in the Kimberley. The collage of figures in the sky is inspired from the Aboriginal rock art we saw in the area.

Back to Carina’s letters

Sent from Darwin, Australia, on the 3rd of September 2019.

Back to Carina’s letters

Sent from Darwin, Australia, on the 3rd of September 2019.

Back to Carina’s letters

La version française de cet article, par Christophe

The South Pacific Ocean, especially its western part, offers sailors an incredible amount of possible routes and stops. In this maze of islands one will inevitably encounter «crossroads» with the important question of which way to go:

• Once in French Polynesia, would you venture off the beaten track to sail south to the Australs, and if so, would you dare visit Rapa in the windswept 30s?
• On a westbound ride with the tradewinds, how would you sail to Fiji: via the Southern Cooks, Niue and Tonga or via the Northern Cooks, Samoa and Wallis?
• In the SW Pacific where would you spend the cyclone season: in New Caledonia, which has such a convenient location in the «soft» latitudes, though would become a potential danger zone from January till April, or in New Zealand, which although is out of the cyclone belt, expects you to brave a long windward sail with the risk of getting pasted on the way?

These aids to navigation and anchorage waypoints cover in a non-exhaustive manner the sailing passage from South America to Australasia (the Trans-Pacific) which is also affectionately known as the Coconut Milk Run. They are a compilation of information gathered from different cruising guides, blogs, word of mouth, etc. and are a fruit of three years and 15 000 nautical miles left in our ship’s wake.

Creating these .gpx files has been a step-by-step process as our voyage across the Pacifc unrolled. Although we visited just a fraction of those places on SY L’Envol, having these waypoints on our electronic charts of OpenCPN and SASPlanet was a huge advantage to any number of books sitting on the shelf. It happened several times, that already underway we would change our course and head somewhere we had not even planned to go.

After our Pacific Puddle Jump, Christophe continued work on the waypoint cloud regrouping the navigation aids and anchorage waypoints into different geographical zones. Some of them include comments in French, others in English, others are simply called by the name of the yacht that explored the spot and passed us the information. On one hand it is a raw and eclectic collection, on the other it is a ready-made data-base of cruising opportunities in the South Pacific and a smart planning tool for sailors.

Note: the Name of the waypoint will be shown on the screen. These are usually keywords and give a general overview of the available information. Many places, however, will have more information which can be accessed by opening the Properties window of the waypoint and reading the Description.

This collection of South Pacific is made of five files:

1- «WPTS Géographie.gpx» (90 KB), is a .gpx file which includes 218 waypoints in the Pacific (and elsewhere). It allows sailors to have an overview of possible destinations as a handy snapshot on their screen. Especially helpful with vector charts which, when zooming out, lose detail.

2- «WPTS Pacifique SE.gpx» (379 KB), is a .gpx file which includes 815 waypoints that cover the area between Chile and Tonga:
-Robinson Crusoe Island
-Easter Island
-Pitcairn Island
-French Polynesia (all archipelagos)
-Samoa
-Tonga (including waypoints of 60 uncharted reefs in the archipelago)
-Wallis and Futuna

To find out about SY L’Envol’s experience in South Pacific:
www.intothewind.fr/category/transpacifique/

3- «WPTS Fidji.gpx» (126 KB), is a .gpx file which includes 293 waypoints in this complex constellation of island groups that the Fiji are made of. Here exploring possibilities galore but one also has to be weary of hazards like reefs and coral bommies. When there are still many uncharted areas and vector charts can often be wrong, double-checking the accuracy of the planned route and anchorage waypoints with a set of comparative satellite images has to become a habit, especially in Fiji. This is where the open-source free software, SASPlanet, steps in. Russian-made but with English language interface, it offers a possibility to access and download satellite images from different servers like: Bing, ArcGIS, Google and Yandex and many others, but these are personal favourites. Navionics and OpenTopoMaps are also available.

To find out about SY L’Envol’s experience in Fiji:
www.intothewind.fr/tag/fidji/

4- «WPTS NZ.gpx» (127 KB), is a .gpx file which includes 297 navigation aids and anchorage waypoints covering the North Island, the South Island and Stewart Island adding up to over 1000 nautical miles of wild coastline with all its nooks and crannies. Three main cruising grounds of Bay of Islands (Opua), Hauraki Gulf (Auckland) and the Marlborough Sounds (Cook Strait) have deserved special attention.

To find out about SY L’Envol’s experience in New Zealand:
www.intothewind.fr/tag/nouvelle-zelande/

5- «WPTS NC.gpx» (177 KB), is a .gpx file which includes 426 navigation aids and anchorage waypoints in New Caledonia. From the Isle of Pines in the south, to the Belep Islands in the north, passing along the picturesque coast of Grande Terre, there are 300 nautical miles one can cruise inside the sheltered lagoon waters. Another fascinating cruising ground are the Loyalties: Mare, Lifou and Ouvea, unique in many ways but especially because of their geology. The three are raised atolls and there are very few of such islands in the world. Passing a cyclone season in New Caledonia may not be as outrageous as one may think: there are several cyclone holes and mangroves where one can take the boat to in case of an alert. Access to those places (including Port Laguerre and La Foa River) will also be given in this file.

To find out about SY L’Envol’s experience in New Caledonia:
www.intothewind.fr/tag/nouvelle-caledonie/

How to install

These .gpx files could be used in any software which can import a .gpx file.
If using OpenCPN, simply save the .gpx files in its «Layers» folder:

C:\Documents and Settings\All Users\Application Data\opencpn\Layers
or
C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Application Data\opencpn\Layers

Price: €35. To receive by e-mail this collection of five .gpx files amounting to 2049 navigation aids and anchorage waypoints, click on the «Donate» button below and proceed to payment via Paypal.

Thank you for supporting SY L’Envol’s journey!

All contributions received through this page will be added to the running crowdfunding project and visible here:
www.intothewind.fr/crowdfunding/

Free: our ship’s track and 175 anchorages in South Pacific (but also elsewhere) are FREE to download (as .kml files) here:
www.intothewind.fr/map-of-the-voyage/

Christophe + Carina
SY L’Envol

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Other .gpx files:

Sent from Airlie Beach, Australia, on the 20th of July 2019.

Back to Carina’s letters